Patrick (Paddy) Moore Where tango, melancholy, and minty bitterness meet in one unforgettable glass
Buenos Aires does not simply welcome you. It pulls you onto the dance floor.
This grand, seductive capital of Argentina moves with the soul of the tango — precise yet spontaneous, elegant yet slightly unruly, bitter and sweet in the very same breath.
Its faded colonial facades, stately boulevards, mural-lined streets, candlelit corners, and late-night conversations create a city that feels both theatrical and intimate. A little Paris of the South, yes — but with more swagger, more smoke, and definitely more Fernet.
There is a mournful beauty to Buenos Aires, the kind that lingers like music heard from an open window. Anthony Bourdain once said the city has “a mournful, sad, sweet quality,” and that feels exactly right. It is a place of passion and poetry, where bookstores abound, the steaks are serious, the wine flows generously, and the night always seems to have one more story to tell.
Wander the cobbled streets of San Telmo, where antique markets and old-world charm feel gloriously unbothered by time. Head to La Boca for its bright splashes of colour and unmistakable spirit. Lose yourself in Palermo, where trendy boutiques, creative cuisine, and stylish bars give the city a modern pulse. Stand in Plaza de Mayo, framed by stately 19th-century buildings and the pink-hued Casa Rosada, or slip into the splendour of Teatro Colón, one of the world’s great opera houses. Then balance it all with a visit to MALBA, where Latin American art speaks in bold, contemporary tones.
And of course, there is the tango — the city’s heartbeat. In its theatres and milongas, dancers tell stories of longing, tension, and desire with every turn. Buenos Aires is much the same. It doesn’t just ask to be seen. It asks to be felt.
What to Drink
Argentina has no shortage of iconic drinks. There is mate, of course, and strong coffee, and the big, velvety reds that made Malbec the country’s vinous calling card. First imported from southern France in the mid-19th century, Malbec found its truest voice in Argentine soil.
But when it comes to the people’s cocktail, one drink reigns supreme: Fernet con Coca.
Fernet-Branca arrived from Italy in the 19th century and became so beloved that Argentina is now the only country outside Italy where it is made. In fact, Argentines consume about 75% of all Fernet-Branca produced worldwide. That is not a flirtation. That is a full-bodied love affair.
Known affectionately as Fernando, Fernandito, or simply Fernet con Coca, this deceptively simple cocktail mixes the bitter, herbaceous, menthol-rich intensity of Fernet with the caramel sweetness of Coca-Cola. The result? A drink that, like Buenos Aires itself, is at once bitter, sweet, minty, and complex — and apparently a rather respected hangover cure. Practicality with personality. We love a multitasker.
Fernet con Coca
The proportions are hotly debated, which means this cocktail is essentially a choose-your-own-adventure in a glass. A good place to start:
- 2 ounces Fernet-Branca
- 6 ounces Coca-Cola
- Pour over ice and stir gently
That ratio lets the sweetness of the cola soften the assertive bite of the Fernet while still preserving its distinctive herbal depth.
Salud!
Best Bars in Buenos Aires
If you are ready to sip your way through the city, these are a few standout stops:
- Ailola
- JW Bradley – board the “Oriental Express” behind a big wooden door on a quiet street in Palermo Soho
- The Harrison Speakeasy – discreetly hidden behind the chic sushi spot Nicky Harrison in Palermo
- Uptown – a playful recreation of a polished, less grimy New York subway
- Censas Passionarias – by day, La Pasionaria is an antique lover’s dream filled with fantastic furnishings and objets d’art; by night, it transforms into a candlelit world of dining and drinks among vintage treasures
Final Sip
Buenos Aires is not a city you simply tick off a list. It is a city to surrender to. Let the tango lead. Linger over Malbec. Follow the music. Order the Fernet. Watch the city unfold one neighbourhood, one conversation, one midnight toast at a time.
As Jorge Luis Borges wrote:
“If I could live again — I will travel light… I’ll watch more sunrises…”
Buenos Aires feels like the kind of place that understands that sentiment perfectly.
